The drive from Satara to Olifants is a particular favourite of many game viewers. Depending on the time available we can drive on tar along the H1-4, or we could take the less travelled route to the east, on the S100, S41, S90 gravel roads through three eco-systems - firstly an area of Knob Thorn/Marula Savannah (on Basalt), then Stunted Knob Thorn Savannah (on Basalt) and finally Olifants Rugged Velt (on Rhyolite/Basalt). This ever-changing landscape and the remote atmosphere of our chosen route will provide a varied and interesting drive.
When booking accommodation at Olifants, be sure to reserve a rondavel with a view of the river. Olifants is situated at the top of a hill and has wonderful views from a well appointed viewing terrace located beyond the shop and restaurant areas. The terrace has pay as you go fixed binoculars, seating and plenty of thatched shade. I have always found Olifants to be a most friendly and welcoming camp (perhaps more so than some of the more southern camps).
The area around Olifants is well served with game viewing roads, both gravel and tar. It also has two excellent look-out points at N'wamanzi to the west and another (whose name I can't recall) a similar distance (approximately 7 kms) along the dirt road to the east. Both of these view points, together with that of the main camp itself, give panoramic vistas over stretches of the Olifants River.
There are also many other pull-in areas from the roads which run alongside the river. These are great places to watch many species of animals at close quarters, as they cross and re-cross the road to and from the river, to drink and bathe.
Olifants and its surrounding area is in my experience, one of the best places in the Park to catch a glimpse of the elusive Leopard.
On my last visit to Olifants; after spending the evening enjoying the view from the river front rondavel over a post-prandial glass or two of red wine, I managed to forget to switch off the outside kitchen light. Only to find - in the morning, every inch of the walls and work surfaces completely covered by insects and moths of every description. They had taken up residence to such an extent, that no effort was made to prepare morning coffee before setting off to Letaba! The close-up view of the enormous mopani moths - they have huge life-like eye markings on their wings designed to deter predators - almost made the mistake and the dry start to the day, worthwhile!
At this stage in our journey, I should point out that the type of odyssey we are undertaking may not be to everyone's taste. The early morning starts, the almost unending hours of driving - punctuated by bursts of great interest and excitement; this, mingled with the unrelenting heat of a Lowveld summer, may be paradise for me but perhaps not for all.
Until one has spent a little time in Kruger - perhaps for one or two nights - my advice would be not to commit to the arduous journey currently being undertaken.
Following our usual evening and early morning routine, we are once again on our way north to Mopani rest-camp via Letaba.
My choice of road to Letaba would be on the S44, S93 and S46 gravel roads which run alongside the Letaba River. This area has always produced excellent Game viewing opportunities during previous visits.
A leisurely breakfast on the verandah at Letaba rest-camp will allow plenty of time to enjoy the view over the Letaba River. In February 2000 ( just after my return to the UK following a rain-free, two week visit to the region) Southern Africa was hit by record breaking floods, resulting in massive damage to property and the loss of many lives, especially in neighbouring Mozambique.
I was fortunate not to be involved in the disaster, but it is fascinating to look at the high-water markers of that time, which are shown in many locations and at most rest-camps. The high-water mark at Letaba gives an indication of the unbelievable volume of water which flowed through the Kruger and into Mozambique. It must have been an awesome sight! Many animals were lost as a result of the floods, as well as major damage being caused to rest-camps, bridges, roads etc.. The Shingwedzi River has ceased to flow since the flood, due to the resulting build-up of sand and silt. At Skukuza the Sabie River burst its banks and flooded the restaurant; before the mopping-up operations could begin, a fully-grown crocodile had to be removed from the buffet area. Crocodiles always were opportunist feeders!
There are many other, both interesting and sad stories resulting from these record water levels. Happily the Park has fully recovered, although it took well over 12 months for some of the bridge repairs to be completed, with the aspect of some of the more severely effected areas, being changed for ever.
After breakfast we must pay a visit to the elephant museum at Letaba. The museum houses the tusks of "The Magnificent Seven", the legendary tuskers of the Kruger. When you stand beside the almost straight tusks of Mafanyane, it is easy to appreciate the difficulty he had in preventing them from ploughing channels in the ground as he walked.
My favourite pair of tusks is the elegantly balanced and curved set, formerly carried by Shawu. At the Palace Hotel, Sun City, there is an imposing life-size statue of Shawu - standing beside him gives an tangible indication of the majesty and grandeur of these, now all too rare giants.
The museum also furnishes the visitor with a great deal of essential information about elephants, their development, lifestyle and statistics - a visit not to be missed.
As can be seen by looking at the map of the Kruger - we have kept mainly to the eastern side of the Park - missing out altogether the area from the Malelane Gate in the south west, through Berg-en-Dal Rest-Camp, Pretoriouskop Rest-Camp, The Numbi Gate and both the Orpen Gate and Rest-Camp. From Letaba, we can choose to take the H-9 tar road, some 50 kms west to the Phalaborwa Gate or head directly north on the H1-6 or its associated gravel roads. As I know the road to the Phalaborwa gate like the back of my hand, I would prefer to take the northerly route through an area of Mopani Shrubvelt (on Basalt).
The rest-camp at Mopani has a modern feel to it, with excellent views over a dam, and the best restaurant in the Park. Before settling into our accommodation, I suggest that we take a drive around the S50, S143 "Capricorn Loop" which as the name suggests, crosses the Tropic of Capricorn. This area has never disappointed - I have witnessed many wonderful sightings including large herds of Cape Buffalo, Elephant, and even the rare and notifiable Tsessebe, thought to be the fastest of all antelopes. My one and only sighting of the seldom seen African Wild-Cat was also on the Capricorn Loop.
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