From Mopani to Shingwedzi and on to Punda Maria in the Far North.

At Mopani we are approximately two-thirds of the way through our journey and half-way through the Northern Region of the Park.

Moving north from Mopani the atmosphere of the Park seems to change. Animals seem to be less plentiful, as do the number of visitors and vehicles. This and all of the area to the North is the part of Kruger which I enjoy most. The impressive Baobab trees, the feeling of solitude and the wonderful bird life makes this area more spiritual and serene.

From Mopani we head south for about 4 kms before turning east and taking perhaps the most lonely stretch of gravel road in Kruger - the S50, some 90 kms to Shingwedzi Rest-Camp.

Shingwedzi is located alongside the river of the same name, this river has ceased to flow since the floods of February 2000. Elephants can often been seen digging in the sand of the dry river bed and drinking from the water which they expose. Water is there - just not in sufficient quantity to make its way above the new levels of sand deposited by the flood waters. The high water- level mark shown beside the outside dining area of the restaurant, almost defies belief.

Many of the accommodation buildings at Shingwedzi date from the first half of the twentieth century; although not as old as the buildings at Punda Maria, which were built over 75 years ago, they give the rest-camp a great atmosphere and should you visit at the right time of year, I understand the Impala lilies add greatly to the appeal of this well positioned camp.

It was during my last visit to Shingwedzi that I had my one and only sighting of Duke, a huge bull elephant, with tusks to rival those of some of the Magnificent Seven. Duke is said to carry the largest set of ivory currently in Kruger. A photograph attached, shows Duke digging for water in the Shingwedzi River bed and does not do justice to this impressive giant.

Following our usual routine, we leave at first light (or slightly before, to be precise) on a combination of the H1-7 tar road, the S56 gravel road and the H13-1 tar road to my favourite rest-camp, the quaint and charming Punda Maria. I always look forward to this drive, as the further north we travel, the more the Kruger appeals to me.

After a hopefully productive drive of some 80 kms we will be ready for lunch at Punda Maria and perhaps a stroll around the "Flycatcher Trail" - a gentle walk in the area behind the main camp buildings, where there is an impressive amount of bird-life.

Before getting too settled into our accommodation, we should continue our drive north along S60 and the H1-7 and the H1-8, to the most northern reaches of the park, turning east just before the bridge on the H1-8 which spans the Luvuvhu River. This relatively short drive of approximately 20 kms along the bank of the Luvuvhu is one of the most enjoyable in the Park. The road ends at the confluence of the Luvuvhu and the Limpopo rivers at "Crooks Corner". I really must find out why it was so named.

The bird life along the river is a delight, as is the view over the Limpopo to Zimbabwe across the river to the north, and of Mozambique across the river to the south. We must tear ourselves away from the beauty and history of this area, as we must get back to Punda Maria before the gates close. On the return drive we should keep a particular look out for the beautiful Nyala antelope, as this is the best area in the park in which to find it.

After dinner in the small but friendly restaurant, the short walk down the hill to our accommodation - atmospherically lit with paraffin lamps (nothing so vulgar as electric outside lights here) provides a fitting end to our travels in Kruger. We have spent a total of six nights in the Park, driven countless kilometres, been delighted and amazed by the diversity of wildlife in one of the greatest National Parks in Southern Africa.

We could exit the park by the Pafuri Gate in the north western corner of the Park, or we could head south to Mopani and spend an extra night there, before heading south west to exit the Park at the Phalaborwa Gate.

The Kruger may not have the genuine remoteness of some of the Parks in Southern Africa (some of which will hopefully be the subject of future articles) it may also be changing - especially in its more southern regions - to become an overtly commercial enterprise but its sheer accessibility, affordability and scale make it a wonderful place for both the first-time game-viewer and devotee alike.

It may well be that commercialism will be the saviour of African wildlife, its best chance of survival is to pay its way by enticing more visitors, like you and I, into the region. I would therefore urge everyone who has ever dreamed of taking an African safari, to travel to South Africa and pay a visit to its greatest natural treasure - it is more accessible and less expensive than you might imagine.