Female ostrich near Mopani.
Monday, January 31, 2005
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Satara to Olifants Rest Camp and on to Mopani.
The drive from Satara to Olifants is a particular favourite of many game viewers. Depending on the time available we can drive on tar along the H1-4, or we could take the less travelled route to the east, on the S100, S41, S90 gravel roads through three eco-systems - firstly an area of Knob Thorn/Marula Savannah (on Basalt), then Stunted Knob Thorn Savannah (on Basalt) and finally Olifants Rugged Velt (on Rhyolite/Basalt). This ever-changing landscape and the remote atmosphere of our chosen route will provide a varied and interesting drive.
When booking accommodation at Olifants, be sure to reserve a rondavel with a view of the river. Olifants is situated at the top of a hill and has wonderful views from a well appointed viewing terrace located beyond the shop and restaurant areas. The terrace has pay as you go fixed binoculars, seating and plenty of thatched shade. I have always found Olifants to be a most friendly and welcoming camp (perhaps more so than some of the more southern camps).
The area around Olifants is well served with game viewing roads, both gravel and tar. It also has two excellent look-out points at N'wamanzi to the west and another (whose name I can't recall) a similar distance (approximately 7 kms) along the dirt road to the east. Both of these view points, together with that of the main camp itself, give panoramic vistas over stretches of the Olifants River.
There are also many other pull-in areas from the roads which run alongside the river. These are great places to watch many species of animals at close quarters, as they cross and re-cross the road to and from the river, to drink and bathe.
Olifants and its surrounding area is in my experience, one of the best places in the Park to catch a glimpse of the elusive Leopard.
On my last visit to Olifants; after spending the evening enjoying the view from the river front rondavel over a post-prandial glass or two of red wine, I managed to forget to switch off the outside kitchen light. Only to find - in the morning, every inch of the walls and work surfaces completely covered by insects and moths of every description. They had taken up residence to such an extent, that no effort was made to prepare morning coffee before setting off to Letaba! The close-up view of the enormous mopani moths - they have huge life-like eye markings on their wings designed to deter predators - almost made the mistake and the dry start to the day, worthwhile!
At this stage in our journey, I should point out that the type of odyssey we are undertaking may not be to everyone's taste. The early morning starts, the almost unending hours of driving - punctuated by bursts of great interest and excitement; this, mingled with the unrelenting heat of a Lowveld summer, may be paradise for me but perhaps not for all.
Until one has spent a little time in Kruger - perhaps for one or two nights - my advice would be not to commit to the arduous journey currently being undertaken.
Following our usual evening and early morning routine, we are once again on our way north to Mopani rest-camp via Letaba.
My choice of road to Letaba would be on the S44, S93 and S46 gravel roads which run alongside the Letaba River. This area has always produced excellent Game viewing opportunities during previous visits.
A leisurely breakfast on the verandah at Letaba rest-camp will allow plenty of time to enjoy the view over the Letaba River. In February 2000 ( just after my return to the UK following a rain-free, two week visit to the region) Southern Africa was hit by record breaking floods, resulting in massive damage to property and the loss of many lives, especially in neighbouring Mozambique.
I was fortunate not to be involved in the disaster, but it is fascinating to look at the high-water markers of that time, which are shown in many locations and at most rest-camps. The high-water mark at Letaba gives an indication of the unbelievable volume of water which flowed through the Kruger and into Mozambique. It must have been an awesome sight! Many animals were lost as a result of the floods, as well as major damage being caused to rest-camps, bridges, roads etc.. The Shingwedzi River has ceased to flow since the flood, due to the resulting build-up of sand and silt. At Skukuza the Sabie River burst its banks and flooded the restaurant; before the mopping-up operations could begin, a fully-grown crocodile had to be removed from the buffet area. Crocodiles always were opportunist feeders!
There are many other, both interesting and sad stories resulting from these record water levels. Happily the Park has fully recovered, although it took well over 12 months for some of the bridge repairs to be completed, with the aspect of some of the more severely effected areas, being changed for ever.
After breakfast we must pay a visit to the elephant museum at Letaba. The museum houses the tusks of "The Magnificent Seven", the legendary tuskers of the Kruger. When you stand beside the almost straight tusks of Mafanyane, it is easy to appreciate the difficulty he had in preventing them from ploughing channels in the ground as he walked.
My favourite pair of tusks is the elegantly balanced and curved set, formerly carried by Shawu. At the Palace Hotel, Sun City, there is an imposing life-size statue of Shawu - standing beside him gives an tangible indication of the majesty and grandeur of these, now all too rare giants.
The museum also furnishes the visitor with a great deal of essential information about elephants, their development, lifestyle and statistics - a visit not to be missed.
As can be seen by looking at the map of the Kruger - we have kept mainly to the eastern side of the Park - missing out altogether the area from the Malelane Gate in the south west, through Berg-en-Dal Rest-Camp, Pretoriouskop Rest-Camp, The Numbi Gate and both the Orpen Gate and Rest-Camp. From Letaba, we can choose to take the H-9 tar road, some 50 kms west to the Phalaborwa Gate or head directly north on the H1-6 or its associated gravel roads. As I know the road to the Phalaborwa gate like the back of my hand, I would prefer to take the northerly route through an area of Mopani Shrubvelt (on Basalt).
The rest-camp at Mopani has a modern feel to it, with excellent views over a dam, and the best restaurant in the Park. Before settling into our accommodation, I suggest that we take a drive around the S50, S143 "Capricorn Loop" which as the name suggests, crosses the Tropic of Capricorn. This area has never disappointed - I have witnessed many wonderful sightings including large herds of Cape Buffalo, Elephant, and even the rare and notifiable Tsessebe, thought to be the fastest of all antelopes. My one and only sighting of the seldom seen African Wild-Cat was also on the Capricorn Loop.
When booking accommodation at Olifants, be sure to reserve a rondavel with a view of the river. Olifants is situated at the top of a hill and has wonderful views from a well appointed viewing terrace located beyond the shop and restaurant areas. The terrace has pay as you go fixed binoculars, seating and plenty of thatched shade. I have always found Olifants to be a most friendly and welcoming camp (perhaps more so than some of the more southern camps).
The area around Olifants is well served with game viewing roads, both gravel and tar. It also has two excellent look-out points at N'wamanzi to the west and another (whose name I can't recall) a similar distance (approximately 7 kms) along the dirt road to the east. Both of these view points, together with that of the main camp itself, give panoramic vistas over stretches of the Olifants River.
There are also many other pull-in areas from the roads which run alongside the river. These are great places to watch many species of animals at close quarters, as they cross and re-cross the road to and from the river, to drink and bathe.
Olifants and its surrounding area is in my experience, one of the best places in the Park to catch a glimpse of the elusive Leopard.
On my last visit to Olifants; after spending the evening enjoying the view from the river front rondavel over a post-prandial glass or two of red wine, I managed to forget to switch off the outside kitchen light. Only to find - in the morning, every inch of the walls and work surfaces completely covered by insects and moths of every description. They had taken up residence to such an extent, that no effort was made to prepare morning coffee before setting off to Letaba! The close-up view of the enormous mopani moths - they have huge life-like eye markings on their wings designed to deter predators - almost made the mistake and the dry start to the day, worthwhile!
At this stage in our journey, I should point out that the type of odyssey we are undertaking may not be to everyone's taste. The early morning starts, the almost unending hours of driving - punctuated by bursts of great interest and excitement; this, mingled with the unrelenting heat of a Lowveld summer, may be paradise for me but perhaps not for all.
Until one has spent a little time in Kruger - perhaps for one or two nights - my advice would be not to commit to the arduous journey currently being undertaken.
Following our usual evening and early morning routine, we are once again on our way north to Mopani rest-camp via Letaba.
My choice of road to Letaba would be on the S44, S93 and S46 gravel roads which run alongside the Letaba River. This area has always produced excellent Game viewing opportunities during previous visits.
A leisurely breakfast on the verandah at Letaba rest-camp will allow plenty of time to enjoy the view over the Letaba River. In February 2000 ( just after my return to the UK following a rain-free, two week visit to the region) Southern Africa was hit by record breaking floods, resulting in massive damage to property and the loss of many lives, especially in neighbouring Mozambique.
I was fortunate not to be involved in the disaster, but it is fascinating to look at the high-water markers of that time, which are shown in many locations and at most rest-camps. The high-water mark at Letaba gives an indication of the unbelievable volume of water which flowed through the Kruger and into Mozambique. It must have been an awesome sight! Many animals were lost as a result of the floods, as well as major damage being caused to rest-camps, bridges, roads etc.. The Shingwedzi River has ceased to flow since the flood, due to the resulting build-up of sand and silt. At Skukuza the Sabie River burst its banks and flooded the restaurant; before the mopping-up operations could begin, a fully-grown crocodile had to be removed from the buffet area. Crocodiles always were opportunist feeders!
There are many other, both interesting and sad stories resulting from these record water levels. Happily the Park has fully recovered, although it took well over 12 months for some of the bridge repairs to be completed, with the aspect of some of the more severely effected areas, being changed for ever.
After breakfast we must pay a visit to the elephant museum at Letaba. The museum houses the tusks of "The Magnificent Seven", the legendary tuskers of the Kruger. When you stand beside the almost straight tusks of Mafanyane, it is easy to appreciate the difficulty he had in preventing them from ploughing channels in the ground as he walked.
My favourite pair of tusks is the elegantly balanced and curved set, formerly carried by Shawu. At the Palace Hotel, Sun City, there is an imposing life-size statue of Shawu - standing beside him gives an tangible indication of the majesty and grandeur of these, now all too rare giants.
The museum also furnishes the visitor with a great deal of essential information about elephants, their development, lifestyle and statistics - a visit not to be missed.
As can be seen by looking at the map of the Kruger - we have kept mainly to the eastern side of the Park - missing out altogether the area from the Malelane Gate in the south west, through Berg-en-Dal Rest-Camp, Pretoriouskop Rest-Camp, The Numbi Gate and both the Orpen Gate and Rest-Camp. From Letaba, we can choose to take the H-9 tar road, some 50 kms west to the Phalaborwa Gate or head directly north on the H1-6 or its associated gravel roads. As I know the road to the Phalaborwa gate like the back of my hand, I would prefer to take the northerly route through an area of Mopani Shrubvelt (on Basalt).
The rest-camp at Mopani has a modern feel to it, with excellent views over a dam, and the best restaurant in the Park. Before settling into our accommodation, I suggest that we take a drive around the S50, S143 "Capricorn Loop" which as the name suggests, crosses the Tropic of Capricorn. This area has never disappointed - I have witnessed many wonderful sightings including large herds of Cape Buffalo, Elephant, and even the rare and notifiable Tsessebe, thought to be the fastest of all antelopes. My one and only sighting of the seldom seen African Wild-Cat was also on the Capricorn Loop.
Sunday, January 30, 2005
From Mopani to Shingwedzi and on to Punda Maria in the Far North.
At Mopani we are approximately two-thirds of the way through our journey and half-way through the Northern Region of the Park.
Moving north from Mopani the atmosphere of the Park seems to change. Animals seem to be less plentiful, as do the number of visitors and vehicles. This and all of the area to the North is the part of Kruger which I enjoy most. The impressive Baobab trees, the feeling of solitude and the wonderful bird life makes this area more spiritual and serene.
From Mopani we head south for about 4 kms before turning east and taking perhaps the most lonely stretch of gravel road in Kruger - the S50, some 90 kms to Shingwedzi Rest-Camp.
Shingwedzi is located alongside the river of the same name, this river has ceased to flow since the floods of February 2000. Elephants can often been seen digging in the sand of the dry river bed and drinking from the water which they expose. Water is there - just not in sufficient quantity to make its way above the new levels of sand deposited by the flood waters. The high water- level mark shown beside the outside dining area of the restaurant, almost defies belief.
Many of the accommodation buildings at Shingwedzi date from the first half of the twentieth century; although not as old as the buildings at Punda Maria, which were built over 75 years ago, they give the rest-camp a great atmosphere and should you visit at the right time of year, I understand the Impala lilies add greatly to the appeal of this well positioned camp.
It was during my last visit to Shingwedzi that I had my one and only sighting of Duke, a huge bull elephant, with tusks to rival those of some of the Magnificent Seven. Duke is said to carry the largest set of ivory currently in Kruger. A photograph attached, shows Duke digging for water in the Shingwedzi River bed and does not do justice to this impressive giant.
Following our usual routine, we leave at first light (or slightly before, to be precise) on a combination of the H1-7 tar road, the S56 gravel road and the H13-1 tar road to my favourite rest-camp, the quaint and charming Punda Maria. I always look forward to this drive, as the further north we travel, the more the Kruger appeals to me.
After a hopefully productive drive of some 80 kms we will be ready for lunch at Punda Maria and perhaps a stroll around the "Flycatcher Trail" - a gentle walk in the area behind the main camp buildings, where there is an impressive amount of bird-life.
Before getting too settled into our accommodation, we should continue our drive north along S60 and the H1-7 and the H1-8, to the most northern reaches of the park, turning east just before the bridge on the H1-8 which spans the Luvuvhu River. This relatively short drive of approximately 20 kms along the bank of the Luvuvhu is one of the most enjoyable in the Park. The road ends at the confluence of the Luvuvhu and the Limpopo rivers at "Crooks Corner". I really must find out why it was so named.
The bird life along the river is a delight, as is the view over the Limpopo to Zimbabwe across the river to the north, and of Mozambique across the river to the south. We must tear ourselves away from the beauty and history of this area, as we must get back to Punda Maria before the gates close. On the return drive we should keep a particular look out for the beautiful Nyala antelope, as this is the best area in the park in which to find it.
After dinner in the small but friendly restaurant, the short walk down the hill to our accommodation - atmospherically lit with paraffin lamps (nothing so vulgar as electric outside lights here) provides a fitting end to our travels in Kruger. We have spent a total of six nights in the Park, driven countless kilometres, been delighted and amazed by the diversity of wildlife in one of the greatest National Parks in Southern Africa.
We could exit the park by the Pafuri Gate in the north western corner of the Park, or we could head south to Mopani and spend an extra night there, before heading south west to exit the Park at the Phalaborwa Gate.
The Kruger may not have the genuine remoteness of some of the Parks in Southern Africa (some of which will hopefully be the subject of future articles) it may also be changing - especially in its more southern regions - to become an overtly commercial enterprise but its sheer accessibility, affordability and scale make it a wonderful place for both the first-time game-viewer and devotee alike.
It may well be that commercialism will be the saviour of African wildlife, its best chance of survival is to pay its way by enticing more visitors, like you and I, into the region. I would therefore urge everyone who has ever dreamed of taking an African safari, to travel to South Africa and pay a visit to its greatest natural treasure - it is more accessible and less expensive than you might imagine.
Moving north from Mopani the atmosphere of the Park seems to change. Animals seem to be less plentiful, as do the number of visitors and vehicles. This and all of the area to the North is the part of Kruger which I enjoy most. The impressive Baobab trees, the feeling of solitude and the wonderful bird life makes this area more spiritual and serene.
From Mopani we head south for about 4 kms before turning east and taking perhaps the most lonely stretch of gravel road in Kruger - the S50, some 90 kms to Shingwedzi Rest-Camp.
Shingwedzi is located alongside the river of the same name, this river has ceased to flow since the floods of February 2000. Elephants can often been seen digging in the sand of the dry river bed and drinking from the water which they expose. Water is there - just not in sufficient quantity to make its way above the new levels of sand deposited by the flood waters. The high water- level mark shown beside the outside dining area of the restaurant, almost defies belief.
Many of the accommodation buildings at Shingwedzi date from the first half of the twentieth century; although not as old as the buildings at Punda Maria, which were built over 75 years ago, they give the rest-camp a great atmosphere and should you visit at the right time of year, I understand the Impala lilies add greatly to the appeal of this well positioned camp.
It was during my last visit to Shingwedzi that I had my one and only sighting of Duke, a huge bull elephant, with tusks to rival those of some of the Magnificent Seven. Duke is said to carry the largest set of ivory currently in Kruger. A photograph attached, shows Duke digging for water in the Shingwedzi River bed and does not do justice to this impressive giant.
Following our usual routine, we leave at first light (or slightly before, to be precise) on a combination of the H1-7 tar road, the S56 gravel road and the H13-1 tar road to my favourite rest-camp, the quaint and charming Punda Maria. I always look forward to this drive, as the further north we travel, the more the Kruger appeals to me.
After a hopefully productive drive of some 80 kms we will be ready for lunch at Punda Maria and perhaps a stroll around the "Flycatcher Trail" - a gentle walk in the area behind the main camp buildings, where there is an impressive amount of bird-life.
Before getting too settled into our accommodation, we should continue our drive north along S60 and the H1-7 and the H1-8, to the most northern reaches of the park, turning east just before the bridge on the H1-8 which spans the Luvuvhu River. This relatively short drive of approximately 20 kms along the bank of the Luvuvhu is one of the most enjoyable in the Park. The road ends at the confluence of the Luvuvhu and the Limpopo rivers at "Crooks Corner". I really must find out why it was so named.
The bird life along the river is a delight, as is the view over the Limpopo to Zimbabwe across the river to the north, and of Mozambique across the river to the south. We must tear ourselves away from the beauty and history of this area, as we must get back to Punda Maria before the gates close. On the return drive we should keep a particular look out for the beautiful Nyala antelope, as this is the best area in the park in which to find it.
After dinner in the small but friendly restaurant, the short walk down the hill to our accommodation - atmospherically lit with paraffin lamps (nothing so vulgar as electric outside lights here) provides a fitting end to our travels in Kruger. We have spent a total of six nights in the Park, driven countless kilometres, been delighted and amazed by the diversity of wildlife in one of the greatest National Parks in Southern Africa.
We could exit the park by the Pafuri Gate in the north western corner of the Park, or we could head south to Mopani and spend an extra night there, before heading south west to exit the Park at the Phalaborwa Gate.
The Kruger may not have the genuine remoteness of some of the Parks in Southern Africa (some of which will hopefully be the subject of future articles) it may also be changing - especially in its more southern regions - to become an overtly commercial enterprise but its sheer accessibility, affordability and scale make it a wonderful place for both the first-time game-viewer and devotee alike.
It may well be that commercialism will be the saviour of African wildlife, its best chance of survival is to pay its way by enticing more visitors, like you and I, into the region. I would therefore urge everyone who has ever dreamed of taking an African safari, to travel to South Africa and pay a visit to its greatest natural treasure - it is more accessible and less expensive than you might imagine.
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Saturday, January 29, 2005
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