Thursday, February 03, 2005

Part 2. Skukuza to Satara via Tshokwane.

We leave Skukuza as soon as the gates open at 4.30am and take the H1-2 tar road, traveling towards Tshokwane, some 37 kms to the North East. Our route takes us alongside the Sand River and obviously we will stop if we come across any interesting animals or birds along the way. It is also always worth stopping to spend time at water-holes, such as Leeupan and other vantage points at which wildlife are known to gather. We will reach Tshokwane in time for breakfast. Tshokwane is not a rest-camp but a designated picnic site which serves refreshments.

Following breakfast we will head south for approximately 4 kms to visit one of my favorite places in Kruger - The Nkumbe look-out point. The view to the west from Nkumbe is simply stunning. There are few things I enjoy more than spending half an hour or so, sitting on the stones under the reed sun-canopy provided, looking out over the plains beyond. With the help of binoculars it is possible to watch the movement of many types of Game, or you can simply relax and soak up the wonderful atmosphere - unless of course you are unlucky enough to be descended upon by a coach-load of noisy northern European tourists, who appear to have no appreciation of, or respect for, the silence of the Bush - as happened to me on my last visit to the area. Still, they were soon on their way, leaving me to the tranquility once more.

After Nkumbe we head back in a northerly direction, taking a detour to visit the Orpen Dam. All areas of surface water are worth a visit, especially in the dry season, as animals will eventually make their way there to drink.

Back on the road north, we can drive directly on the H1-3 tar road, or take the long way round to Satara by the many gravel roads in the area. I would suggest that we travel on a combination of the two. The area around Satara has a much more open aspect than that of yesterdays game drive. This makes a welcome change and provides one of the best areas for spotting Cheetah in the park.

On my last visit to the area, I came across a young Hyaena, apparently by itself, living as they often do, in a concrete culvert at the side of the road. The animal was not at all disturbed by the presence of my vehicle and surprisingly, the young female was eventually joined by an even younger sister. It looked as though the young female had been left in a baby-sitting role as the two animals were otherwise quite alone. I spent some time with these two delightful creatures, and with no other vehicles around I managed to take quite a few good photographs whilst at the same time enjoying the exuberant, inquisitive nature of both young animals.

Satara is a popular rest-camp which has a very pleasant garden alongside the open-air dining section of the restaurant. This is often a great area to photograph birds. Many species stay in and around this garden, often perching on your table begging for scraps of food. At the entrance to the shopping and eating area, there is sometimes a large colony of masked weaver birds hard at work building their intricate and beautiful nests.

While at Satara, I would strongly recommend a drive along the S100, a gravel road which runs East from the main tar road, some 2kms south of the camp gates. This, together with the adjoining roads which will return us to Satara are some of the best roads for Lion sightings in the whole Park. If we are unlucky enough not to spot any cats, at worst we are almost sure to see, Waterbuck, Giraffe, Zebra, Kudu, and a good variety of bird life.

Following the usual routine of a night drive, followed by dinner and a fairly early night, we are once again on the road north at 4.30 am the next morning.

Next installment - Satara to Olifants.

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