Crocodile Bridge to Skukuza, via Lower Sabie.

We begin our journey by entering the Kruger National Park at its south-eastern corner - using the Crocodile Bridge Gate which leads directly into the Crocodile Bridge Rest-Camp.

Kruger has several public rest-camps; there are also bush camps (used by visitors who spend a few days in the park on organized Wilderness Trails (bookable with the National Parks Board) and more recently some very up-market, privately operated camps for those fortunate enough to be able to experience the Kruger in luxury, with gourmet meals, fine wines and expert Game Rangers.

As I have not had experience of the more opulent camps in Kruger (although I hope to do so one day!) this travelogue will be restricted to information and advice which relates to the facilities available to the self-drive game viewer - operating on a limited budget - staying in the basic but adequate, public rest-camps.

The various rest-camps within the Park differ slightly with regard to facilities and ambiance, however, they all provide good value, clean accommodation and basic food.

The camps are also open to day-visitors, to make use of the toilet facilities, restaurants, Braii (barbecue) facilities, multi-purpose shops and to top up with petrol or diesel.

Inexpensive camping facilities for tents and caravans are available at each rest-camp.

Accommodation is usually in the form of Rondavels. As the name suggests - these are traditional, circular, thatched buildings - all with air-conditioning and braii (barbecue) facilities, most have kitchens as well as en-suite toilets and showers. Some less expensive types of accommodation share communal kitchens and ablution blocks. Most kitchen facilities are located on the veranda of the rondavel or bungalow and all have basic cutlery, crockery and refrigerators. Bed linen and towels are also provided.

The cost of accommodation varies slightly but in all cases provides good value for money and this, together with the still very reasonable "conservation fee" of approximately £12.00 per person, payable for each day spent in the Park, brings a big-game safari within the reach of everyone.

It is now possible, indeed advisable to purchase a "Wild Card". For an annual fee this card allows unlimited access to South African National Parks. For South African residents, the card is, quite understandably, much less expensive than for international visitors. The International version of the "Wild Card" costs just over £100.00 per couple and so long as you intend to visit a National Park on more than, say, five days in any twelve month period, provides excellent value for money and is less expensive than paying the daily "Conservation Fee". The "wild Card" also provides loyalty bonus credits when paying for accommodation and other services in the Parks. The accumulated credits can be redeemed when renewing the card.

For overseas visitors such as myself, who wish to visit the Kruger, or any other National Park or Game Reserve for a self-drive safari - the choice of rental vehicle is of paramount importance. The correct choice of vehicle can greatly enhance the success and enjoyment of your game-viewing experience. The use of an unsuitable vehicle should be avoided at all costs!

It is by no means necessary to hire a large, expensive, gas-guzzling 4 x 4 - other than for use in more remote Nature Reserves and National Parks of Botswana or Namibia.

A vehicle of a similar height to a 4 x 4, such as the Toyota Condor would be my vehicle of choice - providing the best possible game-viewing height, with enough space for four people, together with all the room required for cameras, camcorders, binoculars, cooler bags, maps etc..

Although the Condor will seat up to six adults - which would be comfortable for a one day visit to the Park - it is ideal for four or fewer people on an extended visit. Utilizing the front four seats only, leaves plenty of room for luggage and equipment in the rear.

Should the hire of a vehicle larger than a normal saloon car prove difficult - due to cost or availability - be sure to ensure that the side widows of your hire vehicle are the deepest available, as this will significantly effect your view of the animals and your ability to photograph them easily.

The thought of driving a car through such a massive area of Africa, populated by some of the most dangerous animals on the planet, would be a daunting prospect to many - as indeed it was to me before I actually experienced it!

For those who require some convincing, I offer the following information:

• The roads in the Kruger (both tar and gravel) are very well maintained - hence there is no need to hire a 4 x 4 vehicle.
• Strict speed limits are enforced and should be adhered to (speed traps are operated and tickets are issued) both for the good of any animals which may decide to cross the road in front of your vehicle and to ensure that you see as much Game as possible.
• Remember - the slower you drive - the more you will see!
• Most animals in Kruger, although completely wild, are habituated to vehicles and tend not to be too nervous around them.
• Care should always be taken not to disturb or frighten any animal - as long as you drive slowly and quietly you will be amazed how close you can get to most animals.
• Great care should always be taken in the vicinity of elephants, especially breeding herds with young, or old, unpredictable bulls! Keep you distance, make sure you always have a clear exit and you will have many great memories of these wonderful giants. With a little experience, you will soon be able to judge the mood of most animals - even elephants, as their body language and general behavior usually provides a clear indication as to their state of mind.
• As a general rule don't take any risks around elephants.
  
• As long as you stay inside your vehicle, no other animals can harm you, although hippos or rhinos could do some damage to your vehicle but not to those inside!
• It is almost impossible to get lost in Kruger. The excellent maps - available at each entrance gate and rest-camp ensure that you always know where you are.
  

Assuming that we have arrived at Crocodile Bridge rest-camp, just before the entrance gates close for the night and that we have not got time to commence our game-viewing activity, we would check-in to our accommodation by producing our accommodation confirmation to the camp reception. Before settling into our rondavel, we should take the opportunity to visit the camp shop and purchase firewood and provisions for dinner. Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp is unusual, in that it does not have a restaurant. So tonight's dinner will be a Braii. A great way to start our Kruger adventure.

Much to the chagrin of many of those with whom I have traveled in the Kruger, I always insist on trying to be the first vehicle out of the camp gates each morning. As the gates open at 4.30am in November, December and January (progressively later through the rest of the year) this requires an early morning rise at approximately 3.45am - a quick shower, a cup of coffee and a rusk (another South African tradition) and away.

Many of the most memorable sights I have witnessed in Kruger have been as a result of being the first vehicle on the road in the morning. It is not unusual for a pride of lions to be found resting on the tar road - it is assumed that the tar retains heat and is therefore more pleasant for the lions to lie on in the relative cool of the morning. In any case most animals - especially the big cats, are at their most active in the early morning or late afternoon, as well as during the night. They soon look for shade once temperatures start to rise.

We take the tar road H4-2 from Crocodile Bridge towards the Lower Sabie rest-camp (some 37 kms by the most direct tar route) possibly taking a detour or two along some of the gravel roads on the way, stopping at water-holes and river crossings, parking for a while to await developments and to take in the wonderful silence of the African Bush.

We arrive at Lower Sabie in time for breakfast in the restaurant, followed by a drive around the immediate vicinity of the rest-camp - a game-rich area - especially along the Sabie River and at the nearby Sunset Dam.

Along with most of the other rest-camps in Kruger, Lower Sabie has undergone a fairly recent face-lift, especially to the day-visitor facilities, shop and restaurant. Although these changes provide a bigger, more comprehensively stocked shop in addition to an enlarged restaurant facility ( including a fast food outlet!!!) I confess that I much preferred the original arrangements at all the rest-camps. The previous facilities somehow gave an impression of an older, less commercial, more authentic Africa; I am sure my view is not shared by everyone, especially if the increase in visitor numbers is any indication of how the new facilities are being received.

The 44 kms drive (by the shortest tar route, the H4-1) from Lower Sabie to Skukuza is considered by many to be one of the most productive lion and Leopard spotting areas in Kruger. I have been privileged to view some special sightings on this stretch of road, not least of which - an early morning lion kill (being first on the road really paid off on that occasion) when a large pride were finishing off their breakfast of a fully-grown crocodile!

This was a very special sighting, as Lions rarely attack crocodiles, due to the real risk of injury as well as the speed with which a crocodile can usually get back into its preferred element of water. This unfortunate individual was caught by a large and healthy pride, some 200 metres from the Sabie River.

The rest of the day will be spent game viewing in the area around Skukuza - the main rest-camp and administrative headquarters of the Park. In addition to the usual facilities, Skukuza boasts its own airstrip, nine-hole golf course and The Stevenson-Hamilton memorial library.

A fairly new facility in this area is the excellent Lake Panic bird-hide, approximately 4 kms west of Skukuza. This hide has become one of my favorite places in Kruger. At any time of day a visit to Lake Panic is sure to provide views of many birds, such as; Fish Eagles, Kingfishers of many types, Greenbacked, Grey, Goliath and other Herons, Black Crakes, African Jacanas, Little Bitterns, Purple Gallinules, Water Dikkops (now called the Water Thick-Knee) etc. etc. There is also a resident group of Hippos, several crocodiles and the occasional Bushbuck. Lake Panic is a great place for a silent "Sundowner" another wonderful South African tradition.

Over 100 years ago Major James Stevenson-Hamilton was appointed as South Africa's first official game warden - in charge of the then recently proclaimed, Sabie National Park - subsequently renamed in recognition of its founder, President Paul Kruger. Stevenson-Hamilton, with a small group of intrepid assistants was set to work with the brief to make himself "generally disagreeable".

The achievements of Stevenson-Hamilton and his impact on the Park, its development and ultimate success cannot be overstated, however, I do not intend to go into further detail of his achievements at this stage, suffice to say that he is considered by many to be the founding father of nature conservation in Southern Africa. Skukuza was named after him, as this was the nickname given to him by his assistants, meaning " he who sweeps clean".

After a short rest, we will leave Skukuza on a previously booked Night-Drive. Even during the summer months it is advisable to take along a sweater or jacket, as the temperature will drop and the speed of the open game-viewing vehicle can produce a cool breeze.

A night-drive provides an opportunity to view many nocturnal species, made possible by the use of powerful spot lights. An activity not to be missed.

Following our game drive, we will enjoy dinner in the camp restaurant - accompanied, no doubt by a discussion of the day's sightings.

I would suggest that we eat in the Selati Restaurant. The restaurant is located on the platform of the old Skukuza railway station. Trains brought wildlife enthusiasts from all over South Africa, straight into the heart of Kruger and the service ended only as recently as 1974. The old railway bridge over to river still stands and the station itself has been perfectly preserved and the backdrop of a full train and carriages provides a unique dining experience.

As you are traveling with me, an early start is once again scheduled for the morning and as there is nothing much to do in any of the rest-camps after dinner - except perhaps drinking a couple of beers or a bottle of Cape red, on the veranda of our rondavel - we should have an early night, in time for our 3.45am alarm call!

NEXT INSTALLMENT: Skukuza to Satara, via Tshokwane and the Nkumbe lookout point.

One of the many giant Baobabs in the far north of Kruger.

The confluence of the Luvuvhu and Limpopo Rivers at Crooks Corner in the far north of Kruger, with Zimbabwe and Mozambique in the background. Unusually, the Limpopo was completely dry - all the water in the photograph is from its tributary.

Part 2. Skukuza to Satara via Tshokwane.

We leave Skukuza as soon as the gates open at 4.30am and take the H1-2 tar road, traveling towards Tshokwane, some 37 kms to the North East. Our route takes us alongside the Sand River and obviously we will stop if we come across any interesting animals or birds along the way. It is also always worth stopping to spend time at water-holes, such as Leeupan and other vantage points at which wildlife are known to gather. We will reach Tshokwane in time for breakfast. Tshokwane is not a rest-camp but a designated picnic site which serves refreshments.

Following breakfast we will head south for approximately 4 kms to visit one of my favorite places in Kruger - The Nkumbe look-out point. The view to the west from Nkumbe is simply stunning. There are few things I enjoy more than spending half an hour or so, sitting on the stones under the reed sun-canopy provided, looking out over the plains beyond. With the help of binoculars it is possible to watch the movement of many types of Game, or you can simply relax and soak up the wonderful atmosphere - unless of course you are unlucky enough to be descended upon by a coach-load of noisy northern European tourists, who appear to have no appreciation of, or respect for, the silence of the Bush - as happened to me on my last visit to the area. Still, they were soon on their way, leaving me to the tranquility once more.

After Nkumbe we head back in a northerly direction, taking a detour to visit the Orpen Dam. All areas of surface water are worth a visit, especially in the dry season, as animals will eventually make their way there to drink.

Back on the road north, we can drive directly on the H1-3 tar road, or take the long way round to Satara by the many gravel roads in the area. I would suggest that we travel on a combination of the two. The area around Satara has a much more open aspect than that of yesterdays game drive. This makes a welcome change and provides one of the best areas for spotting Cheetah in the park.

On my last visit to the area, I came across a young Hyaena, apparently by itself, living as they often do, in a concrete culvert at the side of the road. The animal was not at all disturbed by the presence of my vehicle and surprisingly, the young female was eventually joined by an even younger sister. It looked as though the young female had been left in a baby-sitting role as the two animals were otherwise quite alone. I spent some time with these two delightful creatures, and with no other vehicles around I managed to take quite a few good photographs whilst at the same time enjoying the exuberant, inquisitive nature of both young animals.

Satara is a popular rest-camp which has a very pleasant garden alongside the open-air dining section of the restaurant. This is often a great area to photograph birds. Many species stay in and around this garden, often perching on your table begging for scraps of food. At the entrance to the shopping and eating area, there is sometimes a large colony of masked weaver birds hard at work building their intricate and beautiful nests.

While at Satara, I would strongly recommend a drive along the S100, a gravel road which runs East from the main tar road, some 2kms south of the camp gates. This, together with the adjoining roads which will return us to Satara are some of the best roads for Lion sightings in the whole Park. If we are unlucky enough not to spot any cats, at worst we are almost sure to see, Waterbuck, Giraffe, Zebra, Kudu, and a good variety of bird life.

Following the usual routine of a night drive, followed by dinner and a fairly early night, we are once again on the road north at 4.30 am the next morning.

Next installment - Satara to Olifants.

The graceful Bataleur Eagle soaring over Crooks Corner, northern Kruger. 

A male nyala, near Crooks Corner.

An African Fish Eagle searching the Luvuvhu for a meal. 

The Luvuvhu River north of Punda Maria. 

The wonderfully old-fashioned accommodation at Punda-Maria. 

The entrance gates of the Punda-Maria Rest-Camp. 

"Duke" the famous tusker, digging for water in the dry river bed of the Shingwedzi. 

Elephants cooling-off in the heat of a norther Kruger afternoon. 

The entrance gate to Shingwedzi Rest-Camp. 

Female ostrich near Mopani. 

Buffalo on the Capricorn Loop. 

A tusk with character, near Mopani. 

The nest of the red-headed weaver bird. Not as tidy as that of the masked weaver. 

A red-headed weaver bird at Mopani. 

Photography at Mopani. 

The entrance to Mopani Rest-Camp. 

A road-block on the way to Mopani! 

A breeding herd of elephants, by the Olifants River. 

Basic, one-bedroom, air-conditioned, en-suite rondavels - with outside kitchens. 

The Olifants, from the eastern viewpoint. 

A view of the almost dry Olifants River. 

The open-air kitchen at Olifants - before it was covered with insects! 

A rondavel with a river view at Olifants.